Tag Archives: fish

Issue No. 39: Controlled Rot – Vintage Seafood

Nearly every great traditional food involves some amount of controlled decay. Wine, beer and cheese are the examples we’re perhaps most familiar with. These are foods whose raw ingredients have been fermented and curdled—decayed, essentially—under a watchful eye. The controlled rot turns them into something even more delicious. Can the same be done with fish? […]

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Issue No. 14: Selecting Ortiz Tuna

Decades ago, chefs used to select their preferred tuna batches in person at Ortiz’s cannery, Spain’s highly esteemed fifth generation tinned fish titan. Batch tasting is still a common practice among cheesemongers; in fact, it’s a specialty of some exporters like Neal’s Yard Dairy and Essex Street Cheese, but for some reason it fell out […]

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